Ventotene: A Perspective

This 1943 military photo of Ventotene is the only known image of its kind. It forms part of the riveting story of the Allied liberation of this tiny Pontine Island off Italy’s Gaeta Coast on the night of September 8, 1943.

Like so many war tales, the liberation of Ventotene contains details both mundane and extraordinary. To give an idea of the island scenario at the time of the Allied arrival, I refer to a paragraph from John Steinbeck’s Once There Was a War, a collection of articles from his time as war correspondent to the New York Herald Tribune in the second half of 1943:

“…there was a radar station on [Ventotene] which searched the whole ocean north and south of Naples. The radar was German, but it was thought that there were very few Germans. There were two or three hundred carabinieri there, however, and it was not known whether they would fight or not. Also, there were a number of political prisoners on the island who were to be released, and the island was to be held by these same paratroopers until a body of troops could be put ashore.”

Strategically speaking, the capture of the island and the German radar was crucial to the Allies, given their operations taking place concurrently in southern Italy—most notably the battles at Salerno from September 9 to 17—and other Italian Campaign operations in that area to come. The mission itself, seemingly simple enough, entailed several potentially critical unknowns. Although there were fewer than 100 Germans on the island (87, to be precise), the Allies had no way of predicting how the larger Italian carabinieri presence referred to by Steinbeck would react, an uncertainty fuelled by the announcement that very day of the Armistice; Italy was no longer at war with the Allies, yet no clear indications had been given to Italian military as to how to proceed, nor how to conduct themselves vis-à-vis their just-yesterday enemies. The infamously confused and chaotic atmosphere created in the wake of the Armistice announcement saw the virtual disintegration of Italy’s armed forces, alongside mass desertions. Yet, at the time these events took place, the carabinieri, Italy’s military police, were considered loyal Fascists (though later, once disbanded, many former carabinieri joined the Italian Resistance).

Ventotene was as well, like the nearby island of Ponza, a penal colony for Mussolini’s political opponents (both islands have been places of exile since the ancient Roman era). In 1943, a number of dissidents and exiles were present on the island. One such exiled elderly gentleman, according to reports, assisted the American troopers of the 509th Parachute Infantry Battalion in carrying out a plan to deceive the occupying Germans into believing the approaching Allied forces were in the hundreds, having been deposited by an attendant fleet. In reality, the mission consisted of 46 troopers and one torpedo boat! The pitch darkness of night made such a deception possible, and a blackout had been in place on Ventotene since the start of the war.

Unbelievable as it seems, the initial “invasion” of Ventotene was conducted by a mere five American troopers. After receiving a signal indicating the stationed Italians’ intention to surrender, they approached the narrow port in a whaleboat, engulfed in a darkness described by Steinbeck as so thick “you could not see the man standing at your shoulder.” One of these soldiers proceeded with the plan, successfully convincing the German lieutenant in charge of Ventotene that he and his forces were far outnumbered. The Germans then surrendered, the carabinieri having already turned in their weapons, and the island was liberated in the middle of the night, without action or injury of any kind—indeed, without a single shot having been fired.

An Island Wonder: Tradition & Innovation at Ristorante Il Giardino

ventotene porto romano

There are so many reasons to visit Ventotene, one of the Pontine Island’s off Italy’s Coast of Gaeta, home to fewer than 900 locals in off-season and important marine and nature reserves prohibiting urban growth of any kind.

Exploiting the island’s remote location, some 2,000 years ago Romans hand-carved a port from the island’s tufa basin to provide access to Villa Giulia, place of exile for Augustus’s daughter Julia. Today the porto romano, one of countless extant examples of Roman architectural ingenuity, remains an active port for deliveries from the mainland and for local fishermen who provide the island’s main food source. It was this, the promise of uber-fresh seafood caught and prepared by locals, that lead me to lunch at Il Giardino.

The two cooks at Il Giardino, Candida and Christian (pictured below), would not seem to have much in common if it weren’t for their shared passion for this wondrous tiny island. United by a dedication to delivering quality dishes to locals and tourists alike, the two work side-by-side in a tireless effort to provide traditional yet innovative food experiences. 

Christian is from Ecuador and has lived in Italy for over a decade. He moved to Ventotene after living six years in Rome, during which time he was chef assistant to French culinary scene-stealer Giovanni Passerini at the acclaimed Roman establishment, Uno e Bino (now closed). Today Christian works alongside the restaurant founders, Candida and Giovanni, who opened Il Giardino over thirty years ago, together with the owners’ children.

In the kitchen, island native Candida’s extensive cooking experience and knowledge of the island—its abundance and limitations—pair perfectly with Christian’s flair and hard-won expertise, resulting in dishes that are at once harmonious, delectable, and beautiful to behold. 

In keeping with co-owner Giovanni’s vision, Il Giardino uses only products available on Ventotene. This means no or very little meat. As Candida explains, birds are protected on this migratory stopover island, and are thus by default ‘off the menu’. With no livestock farms here either, the cooks could pick up some pre-packaged meats delivered from the mainland, yet doing so would not be in line with the restaurant’s philosophy. Neither is there any game to hunt on Ventotene, save the occasional rabbit, which local hunters sell to Candida from time to time. 

Outside sporadic windfalls of this kind, the menu at Il Giardino is based exclusively on fish and seafood—selected each morning at the port by Giovanni himself—and the fairly bountiful vegetables grown on the island: onion, tomato, zucchini, eggplant, peas, artichokes, lentils, and potatoes.

Working within the limitations of this island life is surely a challenge, and no doubt lesser cooks would falter. These two have absolutely flourished. Have a look at the two astonishing dishes Christian prepared, using only the seasonal, fresh ingredients favored by the restaurant:

For the fried zucchini flower starter, the flower is filled with ricotta and pecorino, then lightly fried to perfection. But what renders this dish a tour de force is Christian’s trademark confit, made by oven-cooking Pachino tomatoes low and slow (at 100 °C for 3 hours) with clove, lemon zest, and powdered sugar:

The ricciola carpaccio is marinated in extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, served with an orange emulsion, fresh fennel, delicate pea shoots, and capers. You will be forever dubious of cooked fish after tasting this melt-in-your-mouth stunner!

Ventotene bursts with visitors in summertime, a stark contrast to its quiet, empty, and altogether windy winter season (its name derives from vento, Italian for “wind”). The summer season peaks with ten days of festivities leading up to September 20, the feast day of the island’s patron saint (also named Candida). When I arrived, the Candida celebrations had just concluded. The island atmosphere was at once thrillingly blustery and peaceful, with few tourists in sight as I wandered the narrow streets and sun-showered miniature piazzas, and—in one of those remarkably fortuitous moments solo travel can bring—came to know the faces and flavors of Il Giardino.