Take an early morning stroll through Florence on Holy Thursday and you’ll likely come across pan di ramerino—soft, round buns made with zibbibo raisins and rosemary—the traditional baked good to enjoy on giovedì santo.

More or less the Italian version of the hot cross bun, pan di ramerino can be found throughout much of the year, yet remains highly associated with Holy Week and Holy Thursday in particular, when area parish priests visit area bakeries to bless the buns.

In addition to the obvious symbolism of the cross, the ramerino (rosemary in Tuscan dialect) used in the preparation of these buns recalls the aromatic oils applied to the body of Jesus Christ on the cross (much like the traditional Roman focaccia made with fennel seeds, also prepared this time of year). Milk and eggs render the buns soft and light, transforming the bread from one that would otherwise have been “lean” to one fitting the close of the Lenten fast and the transition to the celebratory Easter period.

pictured above: pan di ramerino at a Florentine bakery